One of the first things I learned this morning is there are two “subway” systems in Copenhagen: the Metro and the S-train. Further complicating matters, near the DFDS ferry terminal I arrived in, Google Maps seems to think these stations are in the same place. They are not.
The train I was looking for was supposed to pass every few minutes, but after around 15 minutes of trains stopping that weren’t mine, I hopped on one heading in the general direction I needed to go. Not always the best idea, but it was mid-morning and my suitcase was the rolling kind, so I had bandwidth for an adventure. I hopped off in a few stops once Google Maps showed I was starting to veer away from the hotel. That’s when I made my Metro discovery and was able to take that to a few blocks from the Copenhagen Strand, my hotel for the next two nights.
I wasn’t able to early check-in here so I dropped my bag and set off to explore. Actually, first I had a side quest: to replace my lost Kindle before my long flights home. Elgiganten seems to be their Best Buy equivalent. Alas, they had no Kindles of any kind. And their inventory system showed none in stock in any of their other nearby stores. Either Copenhageners are voracious buyers of Kindles, or there’s an opportunity here for Amazon.
Having failed/abandoned that quest, I went to find some lunch instead. I showed up right at open for a Thai place and was the only patron while I was there. Upon checkout, two things happened in quick succession that I haven’t encountered anywhere else in my travels: 1) they charged me more than $4.00 USD for tap water (the check literally said Tap Water), and as I was paying with my credit card the server reached over and chose US Dollars on the point-of-sale for me instead of the local currency1, which is incredibly presumptuous (and wrong). I’m not naming the place but it was my first off-putting restaurant experience in recent memory.
The Pad Thai was good at least:
I spent most of the afternoon either walking or sitting + people watching. Copenhagen seems fantastic for this. The weather was great, tour groups were out in force (always fun to watch), and I enjoyed seeing Copenhagers go about their Saturday activities.
Later in the afternoon I checked into my hotel and relaxed for a bit.
I went for a long walk-around to find an interesting dinner place before ending up at an excellent Pakistani restaurant 70 meters from my hotel.
I saved the main attraction for the evening: Tivoli Gardens! Getting there was easy. After my earlier subway experiences, I felt like a pro navigating the Metro. They’re clean, convenient, and automated!
I could’ve gotten there on bike, too. Copenhagen is VERY well set up for bike travel, and the Danes love their bikes. I can’t blame them!
But anyway, on to Tivoli! Let me digress for a minute. If you don’t know, Tivoli Gardens (or “Tivoli”) is an amusement park that opened in August of 1843. That’s a long time ago. As someone who worked at the Magic Kingdom and EPCOT in Orlando, I’m always interested in seeing how other theme parks are set up, and Tivoli was at the tip-top of my list of places to visit for this.
I had a chance to visit in 2000 when I visited Copenhagen for an evening when I worked for Celebrity Cruises, but the people I was with weren’t interested. They were South Americans who were drawn like moths to flame to the Hard Rock Cafe instead, so that’s what we did. It was okay. I overpaid for the iconic Hard Rock Cafe Copenhagen shirt and then managed to lose it within the year. Aaaaanyway…
Tivoi was incredible. I’m so glad I went at night. Amusement parks are just better at night. I have yet to be convinced otherwise. I paid my admission and spent the next few hours walking around, snacking, and people-watching. It’s so great! It’s the perfect size. It’s an oasis in the city. It’s still very much part of the city – you can see the nearby office buildings and sometimes spot traffic beyond the fences – but exists as its own thing, too. It’s such an odyssey getting to any of the Disney parks in Orlando that the idea of hopping off a subway and within a few minutes you’re through the gates of an amusement park… I just love it.
I’ll share some photos here but really it needs to be visited.
After a few hours of Tivoli, I decided to take in the city by doing the 2 km walk back to my hotel instead of Metro-ing. Overall a very memorable day in the capital of Denmark.
If you’ve used a credit card machine in a foreign country then you probably know what I’m talking about. Once you tap/swipe your card, a screen pops up asking whether you want to pay in 1) the local currency, or 2) US dollars. You should always choose the local currency, as your credit card company will almost certainly give you a better exchange rate than the point-of-sale provider is offering. ↩