Norway and Denmark Day 5

Balestrand hike

Posted by brian on May 12, 2025 · 16 mins read

My stupid, stupid CPAP machine kept cutting out on me last night. I’ve had it since April 2018 and in all that time it’s had this quirk where you have to get the plug just right into the back of it, or else it’s unpowered. Sometimes in the night you can accidentally move the CPAP a little and it’ll stop working and start actively suffocating you. Last night was an epidemic of not being able to get it to stay plugged in right. That’s not super fun travel information, I know; it’s more a reminder to myself to actually deal with the situation at some point.

Today was my planned day for a Big Hike. Because of the sleep problems I was really dragging this morning. I managed to wander down to the grocery store at 10:30 and pick up a pastry for breakfast, along with a large water to take with me on the hike.1

I bought a new day pack from REI before the trip – the Gregory Miko 20 – and so far I’m pleased with it. I haven’t yet figured out the ideal spots for all my stuff, but it has plenty of spots to put it. I packed up some hiking essentials and then headed out around 11:30.

Today’s hike was the Balestrand Forest Hike. I can’t recall now how I chose Balestrand as a destination, but once I did, I had this hike scoped out. It starts basically right at my hotel and loops all the way back. The elevation gain, ~1700ft, is comparable to one of the Rancho San Antonio (Cupertino area) hikes I’ve done in the past, and I consider myself in better hiking shape now than then, so I wasn’t concerned with the vertical. It’s 5.2 miles, well within what I’d been training in North Carolina.

I did the trail clockwise. The first quarter of the hike is easy along roads heading out of town toward the trail part of the hike. The second quarter is challenging. There’s a lot of elevation gain in a short amount of time, over a lot of roots, and a fair bit of questioning whether I was actually still on the trail. About halfway through this section I was deeply thankful I took the trail clockwide instead of counter. I could see myself taking a downhill tumble in this area. The trail continues on, finally reaching some scenic vistas and a few points of interest. By the time I’d reached the highest part of the trail, I’d encountered exactly one person. For the second half of the hike, I ran into 5 or 6 sets of hikers who were doing an out-and-back from the other direction. With the benefit of hindsight, this is what I’d do the next time as well. That second half of the trail is much more well maintained.

I’ll let the photos and videos speak for themselves.

The image shows a well-preserved traditional wooden house in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The house is painted deep maroon with bright green trim around the windows, doors, and decorative porch. It has a steep slate roof with a small skylight and a chimney. The building rests on a stone foundation and features white lace curtains in the windows. A matching maroon and green picket fence runs along the front, with an informational sign labeled 'Høyvikhuset' providing historical details and old photographs. The house is surrounded by neatly cut grass, with green hills and trees in the background under a clear blue sky.

The image shows a dirt trail winding through a dense forest in Balestrand, Norway, on May 12, 2025. Tall evergreen trees with dark trunks and branches form a canopy overhead, casting partial shade on the path. The ground is scattered with small rocks and surrounded by patches of green moss and forest undergrowth. A yellow trail marker is painted on one of the tree trunks along the path, indicating a marked hiking route. Sunlight filters through the trees, creating a mix of light and shadow on the forest floor. The scene is peaceful and natural, suggesting a popular area for hiking or nature walks.

The image shows a wooden trail signpost in a forest clearing in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The sign indicates the location is Sandsstølen, situated at 180 meters above sea level. The top sign is weathered, with engraved text. Below it is a wooden-framed information board with a laminated notice, and directional arrows pointing toward Skasheim (1.9 km) and Kræklingen (1.3 km). A green metal box, likely a trail register or suggestion box, is mounted beneath the signpost. In the background, there are green shrubs, tall trees, and snow-capped mountains under a partly sunny blue sky. A rustic wooden bench is positioned beside the sign, suggesting a resting point for hikers.

The image shows a scenic viewpoint overlooking a fjord in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. In the foreground, there is a grassy area with patches of shrubs and rocks, bordered by a variety of trees, including conifers and deciduous species with fresh spring leaves. Through the trees, the calm blue water of the fjord is visible, with steep, forested mountains rising on the opposite side. The sky is mostly clear with streaks of thin, wispy clouds, creating a peaceful and expansive atmosphere.

The image shows a rustic wooden bridge or staircase in a forested area near Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The structure is made of rough, unpolished planks and logs, with widely spaced wooden steps and a handrail formed from branches. It crosses a narrow stream or gully below, which is partially visible at the bottom of the image. The surrounding area is covered in moss and grass, with a sloped forest floor rising on the other side. Tall trees in the background and filtered sunlight create a serene, natural atmosphere.

The image shows a scenic overlook above Balestrand, Norway, captured on May 12, 2025. In the foreground, there are rustic wooden benches and a picnic table on a dirt and rock-covered area shaded by leafy green trees. On the table is a small potted decoration. The viewpoint offers a sweeping view of the blue Sognefjord below, with the town of Balestrand nestled along the shoreline. The town's white and red buildings are visible, along with a dock extending into the fjord and a white ferry ship in the water. Forested mountains rise steeply on the opposite side of the fjord, and snow-capped peaks are visible in the distance under a mostly clear blue sky.

The image shows a wide, elevated view of the Sognefjord and the town of Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. In the foreground, there are green treetops and parts of the hillside. Below, the town is visible with its cluster of houses, buildings, and a marina area along the fjord's edge. The calm, deep blue water stretches into the distance, flanked by steep, forested mountains with patches of snow still visible on the peaks. The sky is clear with light clouds, and a cruise ship is seen near the middle of the fjord. The scene is peaceful and expansive, highlighting the natural beauty of the region.

Along the way I came across an interesting shelter called Balabu. This is a “Dagsturhytta” – a day-trip cabin – that are open to all. I had a look around the outside but skipped going in. I could see this being such a cozy structure to stop at with some friends.

The image shows a small, modern A-frame wooden cabin situated on a grassy hillside above Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The cabin is painted dark brown or black and features a steep triangular roof with a chimney and a wraparound deck with a wooden railing. The structure includes open areas with seating and appears to be designed for hikers or visitors to rest and enjoy the view. To the left, there is a rustic bench overlooking the Sognefjord, with mountains and a partly cloudy blue sky in the background. The setting is peaceful, surrounded by evergreens and natural greenery.

The image shows a closer view of a modern wooden cabin on a hillside in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The cabin features a striking A-frame design with black-stained wood and a rooftop solar panel. A chimney extends from the roof, and the front includes a partially enclosed wooden seating area with slatted walls, supported by angled beams. Surrounding the cabin is a wooden deck with a railing, and there is a wooden picnic-style table and benches placed on the deck. The background includes forested slopes and distant snow-capped mountains beneath a clear blue sky.

The image shows a close-up of the exterior of the dark wooden cabin in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. Mounted on the cabin wall next to a glass door are two signs. The upper sign has a simple line drawing of a cabin and the name 'Balabu' along with logos of supporting organizations. The lower sign, in Norwegian, reads 'Vi takkar det norske folk for bidraget' and 'Spelemidlar har gjort det mogleg å reise dette anlegget', which translates to 'We thank the Norwegian people for their contribution' and 'Lottery funds made it possible to build this facility'. It is branded with the logo of Norsk Tipping, Norway’s national lottery. Inside, part of a wooden bench and table is visible through the glass door, and there is a broom leaning against the wall nearby.

I treated the trail as a loop, taking it clockwise starting from my hotel in town and heading south before turning west for the trail. From the beginning of the non-road part of the path until I reached the benches at the overlook, around 2.5 miles or so in, I only encountered one other person. From the benches back down to town, I passed maybe 14 people. Clearly doing the in-and-out was the more popular route, and if I were to do the trail again in the future, that’s what I’d suggest. The first half of my hike just wasn’t all that fun: trail poorly marked in many places, very steep sections, some hiking on logging roads, etc. The second half was much better. Live and learn.

After the hike I showered and returned to Pearl by Harbor for the salmon and mashed potatoes again, which, again, was excellent. I picked up some snacks at the Coop and nursed my wobbly legs in the room for the rest of the afternoon.

In the evening I went down to Baalee Restaurant again to have their Bergen Soup but they weren’t serving it tonight! There was some negotiating with the owner, but ultimately I was looking for something lighter than what they had available, so I returned to the Kviknes Hotel and had lobster bisque in their bar for dinner.

I hadn’t yet figured out tomorrow’s route plan to Voss, so I spent more than an hour on the laptop working through different scenarios and pros and cons of each. After a lot of switching back and forth between Norled (ferries), Vy (mostly trains, some buses), and Skyss (different things but mostly buses?), I finally settled on an itinerary that is 1) the fastest, 2) the cheapest, and 3) the least convenient (in that it starts at 7:50am and arrives in my target city at 10:30am, well before check-in). My challenge was that the fastest and best modes of travel only ran twice a day: too early (7:50am) or too late (4:30pm). All the routes at more reasonable, mid-day times were hours longer – and not in a good, well-that-will-be-a-scenic-adventure kind of way. At one point I had my eyes on an express ferry to Flåm and then a train to Voss, but that would’ve run over $100 US. My plan, short ferry plus direct bus, runs about $16 total.

  1. I tried, and failed, to avoid buying carbonated water, or Water With Gas. There was one bottle that looked bubbly, and a different type of bottle next to it that didn’t have bubbles in it. My fun surprise mid-hike was that I still somehow bought carbonated water. ↩

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