Norway and Denmark 2025

Rollup of Bergen, Balestrand, Voss, Oslo, and Copenhagen 2025

Posted by brian on July 03, 2025 · 120 mins read

Contents

Norway and Denmark Day 1

24 hours of travel begins

  • Start of day: Holy Springs, NC
  • End of day: Over the North Atlantic somewhere?

This is the beginning of an 11 night trip to mostly Norway with a little bit of Denmark. I booked the flights for this trip only a few weeks ago. At inception my trip plan is: 2 nights in Bergen, Norway; 2 nights in Balestrand, Norway; 2 nights in Voss, Norway; 2 nights in Oslo, Norway; and 1 night in Copenhagen. I’m leaving the house mid-morning on May 8 to head to the airport.

I’m mere minutes into the trip and I’ve already encountered my first travel hiccup. First, let me recap how I’m getting to Norway. From Raleigh-Durham I fly Southwest to Baltimore-Washington airport. I have a seven hour layover there, and then a 6 hour flight to Keflavik, Iceland. After a four hour layover there, I have another Icelandair flight, this one to Bergen, Norway. All of this was booked through Icelandair; they’re the ones that booked the first flight on Southwest for me.

When checking my bag at the Southwest counter at the airport, the first luggage tag printed out had KEF as my final destination. The agent, with some authority/confidence, informed me that I would be claiming my bag there in Keflavik, passing through customs, and then re-checking my bag for the Norway flight. However, she accidentally printed a second luggage tag when trying to print me a boarding pass, and that luggage tag was for BGO (Bergen). That confidence disappears. Which one to use? She asked her supervisor, who wasn’t sure. The supervisor mentioned that there were some people from Icelandair that happened to be there and so he went to the back and was gone for about five minutes making his inquiries. When he returned, he said to use the Bergen tag. Well alright, let’s give that a go.

Luggage bag tag showing BGO Bergen as the final destination.

From what the ticketing agent said, this partnership with Southwest Airlines is new for Icelandair and so they’re working out the kinks. The agent said that I was literally her first check-in where she had to put this other tag on the bag that indicated that it needed to be transferred from Southwest over to Icelandair in Baltimore.

Glad I could be the beta tester for all this.

In the Southwest app I could track my bag – sort of – and it showed that the transfer from Southwest to Icelandair was expected.

Screenshot from the Southwest app showing the next step in my bag's progress was to transfer the bag.

Since I had considerable time to burn I walked down to baggage claim to watch bags go around in the event my bag wasn’t transferred from Southwest to Icelandair. Eventually I got bored doing that and found some lunch in Concourse A.

Sushi bento box showing salmon, rice, some gyoza, and a salad.

After that I scoped out a rocking chair up on the departures level where I could read and charge my devices. The Southwest app eventually indicated my bag had been transferred to Icelandair, so the process seemed to be working.

The rest of my time at BWI was unremarkable. I boarded the overnight flight at 8:30pm and that was the rest of the day gone.

Norway and Denmark Day 2

24 hours of travel concludes, strolling around Bergen

  • Start of day: Over the North Atlantic somewhere?
  • End of day: Bergen, Norway (Hotel Park)

Days get a little fuzzy when you’re doing an overnighter.

It’s one of those situations where the bus picks you up at your plane and ferries you to the terminal, which is never fun. In our case they waited until the bus was completely full and then waited another 5 minutes until it was really fucking full. There were two buses right behind us ready for passengers. Incredible service. Anyway, passed through passport control and collected another stamp:

Passport showing several Iceland and Switzerland stamps from the past few years.

The Icelandic weather outside was wild, alternating between snow storms one minute and bright and sunny the next.

Sunny weather showing through the windows at an airport.

I spend a little time on the world’s most uncomfortable benches:

An uncomfortable wooden airport bench.

After close to 4 hours I board my flight for Bergen. This is my meal, which was surprisingly good. The dish on the left is just melted cheese, which I don’t mind at all.

An airplane meal showing some sliced chicken and a dish with melted cheese.

Our flight was smooth, and how about this landing?

On the ground, I wonder if I’ll see my luggage come out on the carousel. It does! Off we go.

The light rail from Bergen airport to my stop, called Nonneseter, takes around 45 minutes, after which I have an 800m or so walk (the last 200m very uphill) to my hotel. This was the first of several hotels which would end up being cool about me checking in early.

The room is small but serviceable, a theme that would persist (by design) through the trip.

Small hotel room with single bed, small table, and a window.

Another angle of small hotel room, this image showing a closed bathroom door and a window.

Instead of succumbing to my jet lag, I decide to summit a nearby mountain. By which I mean I paid ~$7.50 for a train to take me to the top. The base of the funicular is right in downtown Bergen, an easy 20 walk from the hotel.

Fløibanen funicular train, showing the train traversing a steep hill.

Brian at the top of Fløyen with a view of downtown Bergen in the background.

The hike down Fløyen is beautiful, and no photo I’m able to take captures it well.

Forested hiking trail.

It’s around 300m of downhill, which my legs are not calibrated for. I do it, but the front of my quads and my shins are feeling jelly-adjacent. Meanwhile, I had at least one guy jog past me going up and then pass me going back down, and multiple other hikers and runners going uphill dressed for a casual walk. Mountain people are built different.

I ended the day with some thin-noodles pad Thai near the hotel:

Dish of pad thai with thinner than average noodles.

Tomorrow’s plan is to be in the old part of Bergen by 11am for a walking tour I intentionally booked a few days ago so I’d get my ass out of bed. For tonight I’ll pray to the jet lag gods that I can bank some solid sack time.

Norway and Denmark Day 3

Full day in Bergen Norway

I start the day after a huge sleep, logging almost 9 hours on the CPAP. One would like to believe my jet lag has been remedied and my internal clock has been reset. [Spoiler: nope.]

As I mentioned at the end of yesterday, I intentionally booked a walking tour for this first full day in Bergen, to get me up and moving earlier than perhaps my body wanted to. I skipped hotel breakfast and casually made my way through downtown Bergen:

The image shows a picturesque town square with cobblestone pavement, surrounded by colorful historic buildings with European architectural styles. In the center of the square is a statue of a person standing on a pedestal, enclosed by a decorative green fence. The buildings display signs for various businesses, including an optician ('Briller-Kontaktlinser') and other shops. In the background, there is a green, tree-covered hillside dotted with small houses. The sky is clear and blue, and a few people are walking in the square, along with a white van parked nearby. The scene is bright and sunny.

Arriving at over to the Bryggens Museum next to the waterfront for my scheduled tour:

The image shows the entrance to Bryggens Museum, a museum dedicated to medieval archaeological collections, as indicated by the large text on the building's exterior wall. The building is modern, with textured concrete walls and large windows. In front of the entrance, there are two display signs: one is a tall black pillar with museum information, and the other is a red sandwich board welcoming visitors in multiple languages, including Norwegian, English, French, Spanish, Italian, Arabic, and others. A small potted plant is placed near the glass entrance doors. The surrounding area is clean, with brick paving and some greenery in the background. The sky is clear and blue.

Our group for the tour was unique. There were only six of us1, and the other five people were all together – an older, blind couple; their two guides; and one other person with them. I ended up speaking with the couple quite a bit once they learned I was American and interested in Norway and its history, as they were both Norwegian.

The tour itself was fascinating! Not to spoil it for you but: there were lots of fires. I mean, they built with wood and all. Each time there was a fire, they built a little bit closer to the water. And, as you might imagine, they took lots of precautions to avoid future fires. Our tour guide described all of this in a much more engrossing way, naturally.

The image shows a large, historic stone church with Romanesque architectural features. It has thick stone walls, small arched windows, and two prominent square towers at the front. The entrance is marked by an ornate arched doorway with decorative carvings. The building is surrounded by a grassy area with a stone pathway leading to the entrance. A few old gravestones or monuments are visible on the lawn. The sky is clear and blue, and the scene is framed by leafy green trees.

The image shows a group of people inside a modern building with exposed concrete ceilings and hanging lights. A woman in a bright red dress, wearing glasses, is speaking and gesturing energetically with both hands raised, appearing to guide or explain something to the group. Other people are standing around her, listening. One woman in the foreground wears a casual outfit with a long jacket and glasses, while a man in a short-sleeve shirt is looking down at something. The environment looks like a public space, possibly a cultural center, museum, or auditorium, with railings, glass partitions, and a spacious, multi-level interior.

The image shows a group of people gathered in a narrow, historic street lined with traditional wooden buildings. A woman in a red dress is leading the group, standing in front of an old whitewashed stone or plaster building with a wooden door and multi-pane window above it. She appears to be giving a tour or explaining something about the location. The street is paved with cobblestones, and to the right, there are tall, mustard-colored wooden buildings with steep roofs and wooden beams, typical of old European harbor districts. Other visitors can be seen further down the alley. The scene is brightly lit by sunlight, suggesting a clear day.

The image shows a small courtyard surrounded by old stone and wooden buildings with tiled roofs. One building has a red wooden extension above a large wooden door, supported by beams. The walls of the buildings are whitewashed with small windows and arched doorways, giving the area a historical appearance. There are a few people in the courtyard, some sitting at a table near the building, while others are standing or walking. The ground is paved with cobblestones, and there are trees with green leaves providing shade. The sky is clear and bright blue, creating a peaceful and pleasant atmosphere.

A group of people inside a historical wooden room with bright orange walls, wooden beam ceiling, and stone floor. Long wooden tables and benches line the room. Two ornate chandeliers hang from the ceiling. A woman in a red dress is standing by an old wooden cabinet, gesturing as she speaks to the group seated on benches along the wall. Sunlight streams through multiple-paned windows, casting patterns on the tables and floor, creating a warm, inviting atmosphere.

Interior of a historic kitchen or hearth room with dark wooden walls and stone floors. Several black iron pots hang from metal hooks attached to a heavy wooden beam suspended by chains. In the background is a large whitewashed brick fireplace with a tall chimney and arched openings. Warm light filters through small windows and open doors, illuminating parts of the room. Lanterns hang from the walls, contributing to the rustic, old-world atmosphere.

Narrow wooden alley lined with historic wooden buildings in the Bryggen area of Bergen, Norway, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The buildings have colorful facades in shades of brown, gray, and yellow, with overhanging upper stories and small windows. The alley is made of wooden planks, and the structures lean slightly inward, creating a cozy, old-world atmosphere. A few shop signs and decorations are visible, and the passage extends into the distance, ending in a brighter open area.

After the tour I wandered around the museum some on my own, after which I strolled over to the top of the harbour where they have a bunch of outside stalls selling mostly seafood (raw and prepared). I enjoyed this very fresh salmon sandwich and people-watched:

A close-up of a table at an outdoor restaurant in Bergen, Norway, near the harbor. On the table is a silver tray holding a burger with lettuce, a patty, sprouts, and pickled onions. Beside it is a glass, a fork with a napkin, and a bottle of Coca-Cola. The restaurant area is under a red canopy with string lights, and outside, people are walking along the harbor with colorful historic buildings and a green hillside in the background under a clear blue sky.

The rest of the afternoon I wandered aimlessly. I did have to stop in an “apothecary” for some flossers and took a momment to check out the sunscreen prices. These are about $40 US, so I’d advise bringing your own.

Several tubes of Cliniderm Caring Protection Sun Lotion SPF 25 are displayed on a store shelf. The white tubes have a simple design with the brand name and a circular logo at the top, an orange circle indicating Big Size, and text highlighting medium protection with UVA and UVB coverage. A shelf label below shows a 30% discount when buying two or more, with the price listed as 419.90 Norwegian kroner.

For dinner I opted for another bento box, this one from a place at the main train station.

The image shows a Japanese-style bento box containing a variety of foods. The box is divided into five compartments: 1. Top left: Slices of white fish sashimi placed on shredded daikon radish 2. Top right: Two grilled meat skewers topped with sesame seeds, served over a mixed salad containing edamame beans, cherry tomatoes, radish slices, and pink pickled vegetables. 3. Bottom left: Four pieces of sushi rolls filled with salmon and avocado, next to a row of peeled shrimp. Also included are a portion of seaweed salad, a small pile of pickled ginger, and a dollop of wasabi. 4. Bottom right: Pieces of tempura, possibly shrimp or vegetables, topped with a creamy sauce and a drizzle of sweet sauce. The meal is neatly arranged and colorful, offering a combination of raw, cooked, and fried elements typical of a Japanese bento.

With a 7:50am express ferry in the morning, I call it an early night.

  1. My understanding is this tour accomodates up to 25 people and can sell out in the summer. ↩

VIDEO Bergen to Balestrand ferry

Where I also learn how to kind of edit videos

I used this voyage to teach myself editing techniques as well as DaVinci Resolve.

Please enjoy! And if you wanted to click Like, that wouldn’t hurt, either.

Norway and Denmark Day 4

Bergen to Balestrand

This morning I woke up at 6am, beating my alarm clock by 45 minutes, after a night of broken sleep. This is the day I move from Bergen to Balestrand, still in Norway.

There were two departure options for the express ferry: 8:00am or 4:30pm. I waffled a lot on which one to take, weighing pros and cons of spending another day in Bergen vs being on my way. I felt I’d seen what I wanted to see in Bergen and was ready to experience small town Norway, so 8:00am was decided.

The hotel reception desk wasn’t open yet so I left my key next to their keyboard and grabbed an Uber. I’d debated hoofing the 1.3km from hotel to ferry terminal with my luggage but instead opted for an (expensive) Uber instead.1

The ferry website is a little tricky to use but I was able to book the ticket the night before. We boarded at 7:35am and left promptly at 8:00am.

I don’t think I realized how very “express” the express ferry was. Once we’re out of the Bergen harbor, they gun it. Per my GPS we were hauling it at 37mph through these fjords, slowing for the ocassional No Wake zones. If their paperwork didn’t show anyone with a certain town as a stop, and there wasn’t anybody waiting shoreside, they skipped the stop. We made perfect time to Balestrand.

There’s no way for me to adequately describe how amazing the trip was. Even my videos won’t do it justice. Thirty minutes in and I’m thinking to myself “This might be the best $100 I’ve ever spent.”

One note for future Express Ferry travelers: when you’re nearing the stop, be sure you’re ready to leave! This means fetching your bag from the aft storage and making your way to the front of the ferry. They aren’t wasting a lot of time at each stop! Unfortunately I got stuck behind someone whose approach to problem-solving was to stand in the aisle and hope that everything worked out. I had to play my Loud American card, which I do sparingly.

Regardless, I made it off, barely, and made the 100m walk to the Hotel Kviknes, my home for the next two nights. There are two sections to the Kviknes: the historic part, with 25 rooms, and the modern (1960’s) part with 165 rooms. I’m in the modern part, with the main reason being I wanted a nice, affordable balcony. It is not an attractive building, though; it’s at odds with its surroundings. Frankly, it looks like one of the budget accomodations you’d find somewhere like Daytona Beach. But the room itself is nice, the view from the balcony is undeniable, and the staff is friendly. I relax in my room for a bit, then set out around 2pm for some lunch.

I don’t have to go far. I find Pearl by Harbor just outside the hotel. The grilled salmon, mashed potatoes, and grilled vegetables with teriyaki sauce exceeds all expectations!

A meal is served on a small wooden outdoor table under a beige patio umbrella on a waterfront terrace in Balestrand, Norway. The dish features grilled salmon topped with a lemon slice, placed on mashed potatoes, accompanied by sautéed vegetables including zucchini and red bell pepper, and sprinkled with white and black sesame seeds. A glass of water and a carafe sit nearby on a white patterned plate. The setting includes more wooden tables and umbrellas, with a view of the Sognefjord, green forested hills, and a snow-capped mountain peak under a clear blue sky. A traditional Norwegian-style building and a flag with red, white, and blue colors are visible in the background.

After lunch I walk the 200m or so down to St. Olaf’s Church, which “is notable as the inspiration for the chapel in Elsa’s coronation scene in the 2013 Disney film Frozen.”2 Frozen connection or not, I loved spending time in this building, and was blessed to be able to do so in solitude.

The image shows the interior of a wooden church with ornate craftsmanship. The ceiling is vaulted and made entirely of rich, warm-toned wood with exposed beams. Carved wooden columns and arches line both sides, featuring intricate Nordic-inspired patterns. Wooden pews with decorative carvings are arranged in rows on either side of a light green carpeted aisle leading to the altar. At the front, the altar is draped with a green cloth and backed by a large painting of Jesus with outstretched arms. The apse is semi-circular and adorned with stained-glass windows that let in soft, colorful light. Hanging lamps are spaced evenly throughout the space, and a white rope runs down from the ceiling, likely attached to a bell or lighting system. The overall atmosphere is warm and reverent, with natural light illuminating the detailed woodwork.

The image shows a traditional wooden stave church with intricate architectural details, located on a grassy hill beside a road. The church has steep, overlapping slate roofs, ornate wooden carvings, and is predominantly brown with yellow trim around windows and edges. It features several peaked sections, a central tower, and dragon-head carvings at the roof's corners, typical of Norwegian stave churches. The sky is clear and blue, with a few clouds, and the surrounding area includes green hills, a few buildings, and a mountain range in the background. A leafless tree stands on the right side of the image.

The image is taken from inside a wooden building, looking out through an open door. The interior has wooden walls with a shelf on the left holding brochures and a red fire extinguisher mounted below it. Outside, there is a well-kept grassy area with a small bush, a stone path, and a metal fence. Beyond the fence, a person is seen walking along a waterfront area. In the background, there is a large body of water with calm blue waves, and snow-capped mountains under a bright blue sky with scattered white clouds. Sunlight is streaming in through the open doorway, creating a warm and inviting atmosphere.

Around 8pm I rally and head out for dinner. There are several close by choices. I select Baalee Restaurant, a family restaurant an easy three minute walk from the hotel, based on positive reviews and a few tantalizing photos of the shrimp scampi. Of course I order that, and it doesn’t disappoint!

The image shows the inside of a modern, cozy restaurant with wicker-style chairs that have red cushions and black tables set for dining. A laptop with a forest scene on its screen is open on a table in the foreground. On the left side of the table, there is a metal holder with a bottle of black pepper, a clear shaker, red napkins, and some small paper packets. The restaurant has large windows allowing natural light to come in and round, black hanging lamps with a warm orange glow above the tables. In the background, there is a glass display case near the counter area. The interior has a combination of dark wood panels and neutral tones, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.

The image shows a plate of pasta served on a white dish with a decorative curve on one side. The pasta appears to be fettuccine, mixed with herbs and finely chopped vegetables, and topped generously with grated cheese and a sprinkle of chopped parsley. The dish is set on a black placemat over a red tablecloth. In the background, there is a nearly empty glass, a metal holder with condiments and napkins, and wicker chairs with red cushions, matching the restaurant interior seen in the previous image.

I ate my dinner and worked on my laptop, then went for a late evening walk around 11pm. The temperature was still very comfortable (high 50’s or so). The moon was just peeking over the mountains across the water and I’ve never been more frustrated having sub-par photography equipment.

The image captures a serene evening or early night scene over a body of water, likely a fjord. The full moon is rising or hanging low in the sky above snow-capped mountains in the distance, casting a shimmering reflection across the calm, dark blue water. The sky is a rich twilight blue, with no visible clouds. On the left side, lights from a small settlement can be seen at the base of the mountains. The right edge of the image shows a dark, forested slope descending into the water. The overall atmosphere is peaceful and still.

I tried to go to sleep around 12:30am. The seagulls, of course, never sleep.

  1. Ubers in Norway seem to be regulated by the taxi commision, which seems to dictate a ~$17 minimum fare regardless of time or distance. ↩

  2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/St._Olaf%27s_Church,_Balestrand ↩

Norway and Denmark Day 5

Balestrand hike

My stupid, stupid CPAP machine kept cutting out on me last night. I’ve had it since April 2018 and in all that time it’s had this quirk where you have to get the plug just right into the back of it, or else it’s unpowered. Sometimes in the night you can accidentally move the CPAP a little and it’ll stop working and start actively suffocating you. Last night was an epidemic of not being able to get it to stay plugged in right. That’s not super fun travel information, I know; it’s more a reminder to myself to actually deal with the situation at some point.

Today was my planned day for a Big Hike. Because of the sleep problems I was really dragging this morning. I managed to wander down to the grocery store at 10:30 and pick up a pastry for breakfast, along with a large water to take with me on the hike.1

I bought a new day pack from REI before the trip – the Gregory Miko 20 – and so far I’m pleased with it. I haven’t yet figured out the ideal spots for all my stuff, but it has plenty of spots to put it. I packed up some hiking essentials and then headed out around 11:30.

Today’s hike was the Balestrand Forest Hike. I can’t recall now how I chose Balestrand as a destination, but once I did, I had this hike scoped out. It starts basically right at my hotel and loops all the way back. The elevation gain, ~1700ft, is comparable to one of the Rancho San Antonio (Cupertino area) hikes I’ve done in the past, and I consider myself in better hiking shape now than then, so I wasn’t concerned with the vertical. It’s 5.2 miles, well within what I’d been training in North Carolina.

I did the trail clockwise. The first quarter of the hike is easy along roads heading out of town toward the trail part of the hike. The second quarter is challenging. There’s a lot of elevation gain in a short amount of time, over a lot of roots, and a fair bit of questioning whether I was actually still on the trail. About halfway through this section I was deeply thankful I took the trail clockwide instead of counter. I could see myself taking a downhill tumble in this area. The trail continues on, finally reaching some scenic vistas and a few points of interest. By the time I’d reached the highest part of the trail, I’d encountered exactly one person. For the second half of the hike, I ran into 5 or 6 sets of hikers who were doing an out-and-back from the other direction. With the benefit of hindsight, this is what I’d do the next time as well. That second half of the trail is much more well maintained.

I’ll let the photos and videos speak for themselves.

The image shows a well-preserved traditional wooden house in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The house is painted deep maroon with bright green trim around the windows, doors, and decorative porch. It has a steep slate roof with a small skylight and a chimney. The building rests on a stone foundation and features white lace curtains in the windows. A matching maroon and green picket fence runs along the front, with an informational sign labeled 'Høyvikhuset' providing historical details and old photographs. The house is surrounded by neatly cut grass, with green hills and trees in the background under a clear blue sky.

The image shows a dirt trail winding through a dense forest in Balestrand, Norway, on May 12, 2025. Tall evergreen trees with dark trunks and branches form a canopy overhead, casting partial shade on the path. The ground is scattered with small rocks and surrounded by patches of green moss and forest undergrowth. A yellow trail marker is painted on one of the tree trunks along the path, indicating a marked hiking route. Sunlight filters through the trees, creating a mix of light and shadow on the forest floor. The scene is peaceful and natural, suggesting a popular area for hiking or nature walks.

The image shows a wooden trail signpost in a forest clearing in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The sign indicates the location is Sandsstølen, situated at 180 meters above sea level. The top sign is weathered, with engraved text. Below it is a wooden-framed information board with a laminated notice, and directional arrows pointing toward Skasheim (1.9 km) and Kræklingen (1.3 km). A green metal box, likely a trail register or suggestion box, is mounted beneath the signpost. In the background, there are green shrubs, tall trees, and snow-capped mountains under a partly sunny blue sky. A rustic wooden bench is positioned beside the sign, suggesting a resting point for hikers.

The image shows a scenic viewpoint overlooking a fjord in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. In the foreground, there is a grassy area with patches of shrubs and rocks, bordered by a variety of trees, including conifers and deciduous species with fresh spring leaves. Through the trees, the calm blue water of the fjord is visible, with steep, forested mountains rising on the opposite side. The sky is mostly clear with streaks of thin, wispy clouds, creating a peaceful and expansive atmosphere.

The image shows a rustic wooden bridge or staircase in a forested area near Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The structure is made of rough, unpolished planks and logs, with widely spaced wooden steps and a handrail formed from branches. It crosses a narrow stream or gully below, which is partially visible at the bottom of the image. The surrounding area is covered in moss and grass, with a sloped forest floor rising on the other side. Tall trees in the background and filtered sunlight create a serene, natural atmosphere.

The image shows a scenic overlook above Balestrand, Norway, captured on May 12, 2025. In the foreground, there are rustic wooden benches and a picnic table on a dirt and rock-covered area shaded by leafy green trees. On the table is a small potted decoration. The viewpoint offers a sweeping view of the blue Sognefjord below, with the town of Balestrand nestled along the shoreline. The town's white and red buildings are visible, along with a dock extending into the fjord and a white ferry ship in the water. Forested mountains rise steeply on the opposite side of the fjord, and snow-capped peaks are visible in the distance under a mostly clear blue sky.

The image shows a wide, elevated view of the Sognefjord and the town of Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. In the foreground, there are green treetops and parts of the hillside. Below, the town is visible with its cluster of houses, buildings, and a marina area along the fjord's edge. The calm, deep blue water stretches into the distance, flanked by steep, forested mountains with patches of snow still visible on the peaks. The sky is clear with light clouds, and a cruise ship is seen near the middle of the fjord. The scene is peaceful and expansive, highlighting the natural beauty of the region.

Along the way I came across an interesting shelter called Balabu. This is a “Dagsturhytta” – a day-trip cabin – that are open to all. I had a look around the outside but skipped going in. I could see this being such a cozy structure to stop at with some friends.

The image shows a small, modern A-frame wooden cabin situated on a grassy hillside above Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The cabin is painted dark brown or black and features a steep triangular roof with a chimney and a wraparound deck with a wooden railing. The structure includes open areas with seating and appears to be designed for hikers or visitors to rest and enjoy the view. To the left, there is a rustic bench overlooking the Sognefjord, with mountains and a partly cloudy blue sky in the background. The setting is peaceful, surrounded by evergreens and natural greenery.

The image shows a closer view of a modern wooden cabin on a hillside in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. The cabin features a striking A-frame design with black-stained wood and a rooftop solar panel. A chimney extends from the roof, and the front includes a partially enclosed wooden seating area with slatted walls, supported by angled beams. Surrounding the cabin is a wooden deck with a railing, and there is a wooden picnic-style table and benches placed on the deck. The background includes forested slopes and distant snow-capped mountains beneath a clear blue sky.

The image shows a close-up of the exterior of the dark wooden cabin in Balestrand, Norway, taken on May 12, 2025. Mounted on the cabin wall next to a glass door are two signs. The upper sign has a simple line drawing of a cabin and the name 'Balabu' along with logos of supporting organizations. The lower sign, in Norwegian, reads 'Vi takkar det norske folk for bidraget' and 'Spelemidlar har gjort det mogleg å reise dette anlegget', which translates to 'We thank the Norwegian people for their contribution' and 'Lottery funds made it possible to build this facility'. It is branded with the logo of Norsk Tipping, Norway’s national lottery. Inside, part of a wooden bench and table is visible through the glass door, and there is a broom leaning against the wall nearby.

I treated the trail as a loop, taking it clockwise starting from my hotel in town and heading south before turning west for the trail. From the beginning of the non-road part of the path until I reached the benches at the overlook, around 2.5 miles or so in, I only encountered one other person. From the benches back down to town, I passed maybe 14 people. Clearly doing the in-and-out was the more popular route, and if I were to do the trail again in the future, that’s what I’d suggest. The first half of my hike just wasn’t all that fun: trail poorly marked in many places, very steep sections, some hiking on logging roads, etc. The second half was much better. Live and learn.

After the hike I showered and returned to Pearl by Harbor for the salmon and mashed potatoes again, which, again, was excellent. I picked up some snacks at the Coop and nursed my wobbly legs in the room for the rest of the afternoon.

In the evening I went down to Baalee Restaurant again to have their Bergen Soup but they weren’t serving it tonight! There was some negotiating with the owner, but ultimately I was looking for something lighter than what they had available, so I returned to the Kviknes Hotel and had lobster bisque in their bar for dinner.

I hadn’t yet figured out tomorrow’s route plan to Voss, so I spent more than an hour on the laptop working through different scenarios and pros and cons of each. After a lot of switching back and forth between Norled (ferries), Vy (mostly trains, some buses), and Skyss (different things but mostly buses?), I finally settled on an itinerary that is 1) the fastest, 2) the cheapest, and 3) the least convenient (in that it starts at 7:50am and arrives in my target city at 10:30am, well before check-in). My challenge was that the fastest and best modes of travel only ran twice a day: too early (7:50am) or too late (4:30pm). All the routes at more reasonable, mid-day times were hours longer – and not in a good, well-that-will-be-a-scenic-adventure kind of way. At one point I had my eyes on an express ferry to Flåm and then a train to Voss, but that would’ve run over $100 US. My plan, short ferry plus direct bus, runs about $16 total.

  1. I tried, and failed, to avoid buying carbonated water, or Water With Gas. There was one bottle that looked bubbly, and a different type of bottle next to it that didn’t have bubbles in it. My fun surprise mid-hike was that I still somehow bought carbonated water. ↩

Norway and Denmark Day 6

Balestrand to Voss

Let me share something about where I’m staying in Balestrand. It has the loudest seagulls I’ve ever heard anywhere. I don’t know if it’s everywhere around Balestrand, all around Norway, or maybe they’ve been hanging out at this hotel for generations upon generations. But there’s a group of them, and every now and then they’ll get real chatty, and its ear-piercing in a way our usual beach seagulls aren’t.

Related: it can be hit-or-miss whether a hotel room will have air conditioning in Norway, and other European countries I’ve visited. My hotel does not; nor did my Bergen hotel. With daytime temperatures in the high 50’s or low 60’s, it’s not that much of a problem, but it does mean my options in the evening are to either leave my patio door open and get some fresh air, or bake under the heavy duvet all night. I opted for the open door. And here’s where the birds enter the picture. All through the night they’d periodically have their loud, cawing conversations. Did I mention their calls are uniquely ear-piercing?

Long story short, I’m now on back-to-back nights of broken sleep.

Today is transfer day, where I make my way from Balestrand to Voss. See yesterday’s post for some of the planning that went into today. The tl;dr is I settled on a plan to take a 20 minute express ferry from Balestrand to Vik at 7:50am, wait there (somewhere) for 50 minutes, then catch bus 810 at 9am to Voss (Vossevangen), a ride of about an hour and a half. Oh look, here’s my ride now.

The image shows the interior of a Norled express ferry, featuring a clean and modern passenger cabin. The seating is arranged in rows with dark gray seats on the left and bright red seats on the right, all with armrests and tray tables. Overhead lights are integrated into the paneled ceiling, and large windows on both sides provide views of the surrounding water and landscape. Several screens display safety information, and emergency signage is visible near the exits. A few passengers are seated, some with jackets or hoods. A trash bin and a green backpack are positioned near the red seats. The overall environment appears comfortable and orderly.

The ferry was easy. Once I made it to Vik, though, I discovered a problem. There really wasn’t anywhere to hang out. I walked up the main street a bit. It’s a small town to begin with, and it was still too early for the restaurants to open. The Coop market was open, but that wouldn’t work. To kill time I walked back down to the pier to stare at the water. I glanced back at the road when I heard a vehicle and notice bus 810 rounding the corner towards the bus stop. It’s 30 minutes early! The hell? I fast-walk back to the stop with my luggage and chat with the bus driver. He confirms, yes, this is the bus to Voss. But it doesn’t go there yet. It goes down to Vangsnes (around 15 mins away), stops there, then comes back to Vik. Vangsnes is the terminus for two car ferry services. Since it’s chilly out and I’m bored, I ask if he’d mind if I ride along? No problem, he says, and I load my luggage into the storage area1 and take a seat on the empty bus.

Thirty minutes later we’re back where we started, and in the meantime I was treated to an essentially free fjords tour. We then depart Vik for Voss.

The image shows a roadside sign in a rural area with the text 'Voss 68', indicating that the town of Voss is 68 kilometers away. The sign is yellow with black text and mounted on two metal poles next to a narrow paved path. In the background, there are green fields, a few houses including a prominent red one with white trim, and a range of gently rolling hills with some snow visible on the distant peaks. The sky is overcast with heavy gray clouds, suggesting cool or damp weather. The photo appears to have been taken from inside a vehicle.

I don’t know what I expected, but I was completely floored by the middle part of this trip. It was still a winter wonderland, not a small amount of snow still on the ground. It felt like we had diverted to central Iceland, in the winter.

After the ~90 minute bus voyage I made it safely to the Scandic Voss hotel, thanked the driver, and lucked into an early room again – at 10:45am! It wasn’t free this time but I think the price was something like $20 to check in more than 5 hours early. I was so thankful to be able to get into the room; as jaw-dropping as the bus ride was, I was fighting the sleep headnods, and may have even dozed for a few minutes.

The room: The image shows a guest room in the Scandic Voss hotel, featuring a modern and minimalistic design. The room has two single beds placed side by side with white bedding and dark bed frames, with a remote control resting on one of the beds. Above the beds is a padded headboard and a wall-mounted rail with built-in lighting. The floor is light wood, and the walls include a green accent behind the beds. Near a large window with a view of the surrounding hills, there is a seating area with a blue cushioned bench, a small round table, and two brown armchairs. The room is well-lit with natural light and has a clean, contemporary feel.

The view from the room2: The image shows a view from a room at the Scandic Voss hotel, overlooking a street, a lake, and the surrounding landscape. In the foreground, there is a bus stop with a red and white bus parked nearby, along with a few pedestrians and a white car driving on the road. Across the street is a gas station with a red roof and several vehicles parked in its lot. Next to the gas station is a modern apartment building with balconies, and several parked cars line the area around it. In the background, a lake stretches across the scene with forested hills and scattered homes on the opposite shore. The view combines elements of urban and natural scenery, with clear weather and green, tree-covered hills.

The gray, overcast weather matched my mood. I wandered out to try to find a late lunch. I walked from one end of town to the other, peeking at menus, but not being interested in anything I saw. I ended up with a pretty mediocre tomato-basil-mozarella from the gas station across from the hotel, which I ate in the room.

I whittled away the afternoon in my room, then headed back out around 6. I ended up at Vossa Sushi, a small place on the other end of town that mainly caters to takeout customers but has three 2-tops for eat-ins. I ate in. The high rating on Google Maps seems justified. The pricing was… interesting. The shrimp tempura starter was $15. A 5 piece chicken gyoza was $18. A miso soup was $9. Nigiri, on the other hand, was right on par with what you’d pay in the States, maybe even a little cheaper. Go figure. I stuck with the fish.

After dinner the sun was out, which chased the chill in the air away, so I had a nice walk around town.

The image shows a peaceful cemetery in the town of Voss, Norway, on a clear, sunny day. The cemetery is well-maintained, with rows of small gravestones set in neatly trimmed grass and pathways. Large green trees provide shade throughout the area, and bushes line the foreground. In the background, there are residential buildings and a few people walking among the graves. Snow-capped mountains rise in the distance under a bright blue sky with wispy clouds, and the overall setting feels serene and scenic, blending natural beauty with a sense of quiet reverence.

Tonight I’ll try to sleep early. And this time, no seagulls!

  1. these inter-city buses in Norway, operated by Skyss, are proper charter buses like you’d have if you were going on a tour. Nice! ↩

  2. that’s the gas station where I bought my so-so lunch sandwich. They also had things like burgers and fries, cooked to order, but I was looking for something lighter. ↩

Norway and Denmark Day 7

Sightseeing around Voss

What a difference a good night’s sleep makes! With conditioned air and without the company of seagulls I slept like a baby who sleeps through the night.

Today’s plan was to visit the summit of the mountain adjacent to Voss, have lunch at Hangurstoppen, and head back down. I considered hiking up to the top and taking the gondola back down, but at 2,000ft of vertical ascent I just didn’t have it in me. I’m pretty sure I could do a 2,000ft hike at this point, just not after doing 1,500ft two days before. I’m not there yet.

I took the gondola up around 11:30am with the plan to wander around the top a bit and then grab a burger at the restaurant at the summit. The gondola ticket was ~$18 each way.

The image shows a modern cable car or gondola lift cabin at a station platform. The cabin is black with bright yellow accents along the edges and sides. It is suspended from a large mechanical arm connected to a concrete structure above. On the front of the cabin, white text reads 'Kårdaløenuten 1295 moh', indicating an elevation of 1295 meters above sea level. The cabin is part of the Leitner gondola system, as seen from the logo. The station is an enclosed building with metal and wooden support beams and large windows allowing natural light inside. A yellow arrow on the ground points forward, guiding foot traffic. Some equipment or supplies wrapped in tarps are visible in the background.

Once I reached the top I attempted to hike the ~1km panoramic trail but it was poorly marked and I gave up about a quarter in. Nothing lost; the views were will outstanding, with or without panoramic trail.

The image shows a small, dark-colored wooden cabin with a hexagonal shape, situated in a natural, open area in Voss, Norway. The cabin has a shingled roof with a central chimney and a front door featuring a geometric window design. It sits on a raised wooden platform with a ramp or walkway leading up to it. In front of the cabin, there is a wooden box or container and a tilted panel, possibly used for seating or storage. The surrounding landscape consists of grassy and rocky terrain with patches of moss and sparse vegetation. In the distance, snow-capped mountains and a line of evergreen trees are visible under a mostly cloudy sky.

The image shows a large swing positioned at the edge of a hill or mountain, overlooking a scenic valley in the Voss, Norway area. The swing consists of a sturdy rectangular wooden or metal seat suspended by two metal chains from a tall brown frame. The ground around the swing is gravel with some exposed stone and wooden borders outlining the swing's base. In the background, a wide view of the valley stretches out, featuring green fields, forested hills, a river, and clusters of buildings. Snow-capped mountains rise in the distance under a lightly overcast sky. The scene conveys a sense of height and openness with a dramatic natural backdrop.

I’d skipped breakfast in anticipation of a filling burger and fries at the top. The restaurant had other plans, however, and were offering a (very) limited menu of choices like tomato soup, hummus, tzatziki, or shrimp salad. Basically nothing that involves grilling or frying, it seems. I opted for the shrimp salad, and I wanted to be mad, but it ended up being really tasty. Not filling like a burger, but tasty.

The image shows the interior of a modern, spacious café or restaurant in the Voss, Norway area. The foreground features a wooden table with a clear glass, a closed blue fabric-covered Kindle (now lost somewhere in Norway R.I.P.), and a glass bottle of Coca-Cola. The background reveals a high-ceilinged, two-level space with contemporary design elements. There are brown leather chairs around dark tables, wooden cabinetry, and a staircase leading to an upper mezzanine area with additional seating. The lighting is a mix of hanging pendant lamps and natural light from large windows on the left side. Several people are seated at tables, and a counter area on the right appears to serve food and drinks. The atmosphere is casual and modern.
(One of my last days with that Kindle, sadly.)

After lunch I wandered the summit a bit more then boarded a gondola back down to the hotel. I freshened up a bit and headed right back out for the 3 mile easy hike I’d flagged prior to coming: Bordalsgjelet Gorge. Most of this hike is on roads and trails (though it’s not on flat roads).

The image shows a wide, straight gravel path running through a peaceful forested area in the Voss, Norway region. Tall pine trees with slender trunks and sparse branches line both sides of the path, creating a lightly shaded canopy. The forest floor is covered with green grass and low vegetation, and sunlight filters through the trees, casting soft shadows on the path. A few utility poles with small devices attached are visible along the right side of the trail. The path appears well-maintained and stretches far into the distance, suggesting it's a popular route for walking or cycling.

The image shows a covered pedestrian bridge crossing the Vosso river in Voss, Norway. The bridge is constructed with wooden slats on the sides and roof, supported by a rust-colored metal frame. Light filters through the slats, creating sharp diagonal shadows on the wooden planks and central metal grate of the walkway. The bridge is long and straight, with a strong sense of depth leading to a distant opening at the far end. On the right, beyond the bridge structure, there are glimpses of the river and a hillside dotted with houses and trees. The design combines functionality with a visually striking pattern of light and shadow.

The last little bit being a rocky carved-out trail along a narrow gorge, so I was thankful for my hiking boots and strong legs. The wet, slanted rocks keep you on your toes, though there’s a handrail to keep anything serious from happening.

The image shows a section of the hiking trail at Bordalsgjelet Gorge in Voss, Norway. The narrow, rocky path ascends a slope and features a series of rustic wooden steps made from small logs. These steps are supported by a wooden handrail running along the right side. In the foreground, a sturdy metal railing marks the edge of the trail near the entrance or a viewpoint. The surrounding landscape is lush, with moss-covered rocks, green vegetation, and tall, slender trees with early spring leaves. The scene captures the natural beauty and rugged terrain typical of the gorge area.

I got a little lost on the way to the gorge and otherwise had to pay close attention to my map app, but the way back once I knew where to go was sublime. I was able to be more in the moment. The sun had arrived, it was a comfortable 55F or so, and my stress and anxiety had melted away for the moment.

Once back at the hotel I headed up to the part of the hotel where they have a bunch of tables and chairs set up outside (sun deck?) and read my Kindle for a few hours in the sun. Later in the evening I walked across town to the steak place I’d had my eye on the night before and had a medium-rare-that-was-actually-rare tenderloin (it was still really good), asparagus, broccoli, mushrooms, and an au gratin potato concoction in a French onion soup bowl that I’ll definitely have to try to recreate at home.

The image shows a restaurant menu page for steaks and ribs, featuring items in both Norwegian and English. It includes tenderloin steaks, a house special called Vossevangen Westernbiff, and BBQ spare ribs. The menu highlights optional sauces, side dishes, and portion upgrades, with prices listed in Norwegian kroner. The layout is clear, with descriptions beneath each item and a mix of bold text and color highlights for emphasis.

The image shows a plated steak meal served at a restaurant. The main plate includes a tenderloin steak with creamy pepper sauce, accompanied by grilled tomato with cheese, corn on the cob, asparagus, broccoli, and sautéed mushrooms. A separate dish contains a portion of gratinated potatoes. On the table are a water pitcher, a glass of water, and a lit candle in a glass holder, suggesting a casual but nicely set dining environment.

Tomorrow my day doesn’t start until checkout time at the hotel. I’m on a 1:03pm train to Oslo that arrives at 7:05pm. I made sure to pre-book a seat on the right (and correct) side of the train to ensure the best views, and I’ve charged my GoPro in preparation. With my schedule change of taking the ferry to Copenhagen a day early, I’ll be squeezed for time in Oslo. I’ll probably be settled into my hotel by 8pm and then the ferry starts boarding at 2:30pm the next day. I’ll see how much power touring I can do!

Norway and Denmark Day 8

Train from Voss to Oslo

Today I’m taking the Bergensbanen train service that runs between Bergen and Oslo. In my case I’m picking it up about an hour and 15 minutes into its journey east out of Bergen, since I’m joining in Voss.

The train wasn’t until 1:03pm so I had some time to kill in the morning. I slept in late, checked out of the hotel around 11:45am, then basically just chilled on the train platform. It was yet another in a series of beautiful days, with temps in the high 50’s – which, YES, seem like it would be chilly – but with the sun out it was sublime.

I sat on that platform for 75 minutes with nothing to do. As my train was pulling in, I happened to notice blood on my hand, which usually isn’t the case. Turns out I’ve scraped my knee somehow, somewhere, and now there’s a noticable amount of blood there (and on my hand). Did I notice in the 75 minutes of boredom leading up to this? Nope. Only once the train was pulling in and it was go time. I hustled to get into my suitcase, into the day pack stashed inside my suitcase, to find some tissues to tidy myself up as people are boarding. I get cleaned up enough not to make a spectacle of myself while boarding the train and getting situated. But COME ON, universe.

I found my seat, on the righthand side when heading Bergen to Oslo, and settled in for the 6+ hour journey. There’s not a lot of narrative to provide. Instead, enjoy some of these photos and videos.

My lonely suitcase waiting for my 1:03pm train: The image shows a sunny day at a train station in Voss, Norway. The platform is quiet, with a few people sitting on benches, some wearing high-visibility work clothing. A black suitcase and a black bag rest on one of the metal benches in the foreground. Overhead wires and poles line the tracks, and signs with platform numbers are visible. To the left, traditional buildings with steep, shingled roofs stand beside the platform. In the background, there is a lush green hillside dotted with white houses, and a clear blue sky stretches above the mountainous landscape.

Along the train route: The image shows a fast-flowing turquoise river winding through a rocky forested valley. Trees with light green spring foliage cover both sides of the valley, and sunlight filters through the clear blue sky above. In the background, snow-covered mountain peaks rise above the tree line, creating a dramatic contrast with the lush greenery below. The water appears clear and vibrant, with visible white rapids forming over submerged rocks. This scenic landscape is along the Bergensbanen railway between Voss and Oslo in Norway.

Lots of variations in the biomes along the route: The image shows a vast mountainous landscape mostly covered in snow under a clear blue sky. Patches of dark brown and black rock break through the snow in irregular patterns, especially on the slopes and ridges. Gentle hills and rounded peaks stretch across the scene, with little to no visible vegetation. A narrow road or railway track can be faintly seen winding through the lower part of the image. This wintry scene is part of the high-altitude terrain along the Bergensbanen train route between Voss and Oslo in Norway.

I’m always a sucker for meatballs and mashed potatoes, even in a train dining car. Not bad! The image shows a meal served on a round disposable plate, likely made of compostable material, placed on a table beside a window. The meal consists of three meatballs covered in brown gravy, a portion of mashed potatoes topped with herbs, and a scoop of yellow pea puree or mushy peas. A wooden fork is held above the plate, ready to eat. The food is attractively arranged, and the setting suggests it's being enjoyed in the dining car of a train, with part of a tiled platform or sidewalk visible through the window.

We arrived late into Oslo, so the whole trip from Voss was 1:03pm to 7:20pm or so. As you might expect for a rail line that needs to dodge mountains and fjords and follows rivers a lot of the way, there are a lot of curves, so by 5:00pm or so I was ready to be done. The variety of scenery, though, was amazing to look at.

Once finally at Oslo, it was a short walk from the central Oslo Station (Oslo S) to the Clarion Oslo hotel where I’m staying.

The image shows a modern hotel room at the Clarion Oslo, located near the main train station. The room features a large bed with white linens, dark gray bedding, and several pillows, including two in a burnt orange color. Behind the bed is a tall, padded black headboard that spans the width of the wall. Floor-to-ceiling curtains cover a large window or balcony door, allowing soft daylight to filter in. A flat-screen TV is mounted on the left wall above a long, curved black console table. On the table are a lamp, a tray with a kettle and cups, and some other amenities. The flooring is light wood, and a chair and small desk are partially visible on the right side of the image. The overall style is minimalist and contemporary.

The image shows the same modern hotel room at the Clarion Oslo from a different angle, focusing on the bed and the area near the entrance. The bed has a dark padded headboard and is neatly made with white linens, a dark gray blanket, and four accent pillows—two in a bold orange-red and two in a lighter patterned shade. A note or card is placed on the blanket. To the right of the bed is an open wardrobe with a hanger and shelf space, next to a compact desk area with a maroon surface, a curved mirror, and a soft gray chair. The walls are light, the floor is a light wood, and the room has a clean, minimalist Scandinavian design. A small trash bin sits near the wall by the door.

It’s too many pillows! The image shows a close-up of the bed in the same room at the Clarion Oslo, focusing on the pillows. There is an abundance of pillows arranged at the head of the bed, including two large white sleeping pillows and at least four decorative ones in shades of orange and textured fabric. A small bottle of Coca-Cola is placed upright beside the pillows, and a coiled cord—possibly from a CPAP machine or similar device—rests on the bed. A reading light attached to the headboard illuminates the scene, casting soft shadows on the crisp white bedding.

I hadn’t really done anything all day but was glad to get into my room and unwind a little. I end up downing a burrito bowl at a place called El Camino near the hotel, which hit the spot. I walked around near the hotel in the evening, and was particularly taken by the Opera House, as you might tell.

The image shows a scenic urban view in downtown Oslo, taken from a pedestrian bridge over a canal or river. On the left side, there are modern red-brick apartment buildings with balconies, next to a grassy area and a wooden walkway along the water where people are sitting and enjoying the outdoors. In the background, the strikingly angled building of the Munch Museum stands out with its unique leaning design. To the right is a large modern white building, part of the Oslo Opera House complex, with a Ferris wheel partially visible behind it. The bridge ahead carries cars and pedestrians, and the water reflects the clear blue sky above. The area appears clean, modern, and lively.

The image shows the Oslo Opera House in the evening, viewed from a low angle on its sloped marble roof. The building's large glass façade is brightly lit from within, revealing the curved wooden interior and colorful horizontal lighting that glows in warm shades of orange and red. The sky is a deep blue, indicating twilight or early nightfall. In the background, a lit Ferris wheel adds a festive element, and a few people are visible enjoying the public space. The architecture is modern and striking, with clean lines and a strong geometric presence.

The image shows a minimalist and dramatic view from the roof of the Oslo Opera House at dusk. The large white stone wall of the building dominates the left side of the frame, with its subtle textured surface catching the soft evening light. The rest of the image reveals the expansive sloped rooftop stretching toward the horizon, with a narrow line of silhouetted people in the distance. The sky is a deepening blue, fading into warm orange tones near the horizon, with a band of low, evenly spaced clouds adding depth. Two dome-like structures can be seen on the far right, adding contrast to the smooth architecture. The scene is quiet and serene.

The image captures a beautiful evening view from the roof of the Oslo Opera House, looking out toward the Oslo waterfront. The sloped marble walkway leads downward, lined with soft, warm lights along the low stone wall. To the right, part of the building’s angular structure extends outward. Across the calm water, the buildings along the harbor are softly illuminated, with their lights reflecting on the surface. The sky glows with the last light of sunset, transitioning from deep blue to warm orange near the horizon, and streaked with a layer of low clouds. The overall atmosphere is peaceful and inviting.

Norway and Denmark Day 9

Oslo and the ferry

  • Start of day: Oslo, Norway (Clarion Hotel Oslo)
  • End of day: Nordic Crown ferry, somewhere between Oslo and Copenhagen

Today was my first full day in Oslo! Truly, I had a fantastic sleep at the Clarion Oslo (the one on Dronning Eufemias gate 15), nearish the water and train station. I woke up about 10 minutes before a leafblower started out on the courtyard, so fortunate timing there.

My ferry starts boarding at 2:30, so there wasn’t time to waste. I tend not to be a churches-and-museums kind of guy[1], so I left the hotel without a firm plan for the day. When this happens, I switch into improv mode: start heading somewhere and make it up as we go. So I endeavored to figure out the light rail system. Turns out it’s stupid easy. I downloaded the Ruter app, which lets you plan trips and buy tickets within Oslo. I’d heard someone recommend Vigeland Park, featuring 200+ sculptures representing Gustav Vigeland’s life work, so I figured what the hell. I walked down to the train station and picked up the 15 train for about 20 minutes, which deposited me on the corner of the park.

Once I entered the park and saw a sign for a cafe, it occurred to be I was neither fed not caffeinated, so that would be the first stop. It’s not every day I dine in view of a historic manor!

A large, two-story building with a central tower and a pointed spire stands under a clear blue sky. The structure has a yellow facade with dark wooden beams and a tiled black roof. The central section features a clock above the main entrance. The building is surrounded by a green lawn with scattered yellow flowers, and a gravel path leads up to it. On the left and right sides of the lawn, there are outdoor seating areas and additional red-roofed structures. Trees are visible behind the building.

One average-tasting chocolate croissant and Americano later, and I was ready to explore the park. I wandered aimlessly for a bit. There were lots of tour groups here, likely shore excursions from the MSC cruise shop docked outside of town. It was a beautiful park but I didn’t feel I was getting an Oslo experience. It was around an hour walk back to my hotel, so I set out walking back in that direction. The Royal Palace, being about halfway back, was a good first waypoint. It was a bright, warm, beautiful day, and I really enjoyed walking back through the city. The Palace itself was preparing for tomorrow’s huge May 17th Constitution Day festivities. The 17th is a big deal throughout Norway but especially so in Oslo.

The second half of the walk was a lot of the same (not in a bad way). I stopped through two malls on the way back, remarkable on its own as I’m not a big Mall Guy. The mall next to the main train station had the best sushi-to-go I’ve ever encountered ANYWHERE:

A hand holds a plastic sushi container with four pieces of salmon nigiri and four salmon maki rolls filled with salmon and cucumber. The top section contains pickled ginger, wasabi, and a parsley garnish. A round label on the lid reads 'Gambus Salmon Omega 3'. The background shows a tiled floor and part of a black sneaker.

With still more than 2 hours to kill before my ferry, I meandered back to the hotel, sat out front in the sun and people-watched for a bit, then grabbed my luggage from bell services and started the walk over to the ferry terminal. It was around a 25 minute walk from the hotel to the ferry terminal but it was super easy. My concern was I’d be walking through an industrial area, dodging cars and trucks hauling containers, but it wasn’t that at all. The path was well-marked and well-paved and it was no trouble at all.

The DFDS ferry itself, the Nordic Crown, is older but still perfectly serviceable.

A large cruise ship named 'Nordic Crown' is docked at a port next to a mostly empty parking area. The ship has a white and teal hull with multiple decks, red lifeboats, and a red funnel with a white 'G' logo. A tour bus is parked nearby, and a few small buildings and trees line the edge of the port under a clear blue sky.

I opted for an outside stateroom with a window. The room was certainly small – I think it’s even smaller than my crew cabin on the Disney Wonder – but served my needs fine. There were four beds, though I’m not sure I’d want to attempt that, even with people I like.

A small cruise ship cabin with a window in the center of the back wall. There are two folded bunk beds on the left and right walls, a light green bench-style seat below the right bunk, and a small wall-mounted table beneath the window. A black chair is positioned near a dark desk in the foreground, and a 'TAX FREE' magazine hangs on the wall next to the door. There are no visible towels.

During the remaining daylight hours I explored the ship and tried to capture photos and videos of my last view of the Norwegian fjords.

Before dinner I wanted to have a shower and wash the sweat and sunscreen off. Only problem, I didn’t seem to have a towel! I dried off with a sweatshirt, instead, and that was mostly fine. God Bless my handy old LinkedIn sweatshirt, that’s been so many places around the world with me.

For dinner I hit the buffet. I’m pretty sure it was 299 Danish kroner (DKK), or around 45USD.

A buffet area with a variety of food displayed in black bowls and serving trays. Visible dishes include pasta with pesto, mixed vegetable salads, and roasted vegetables. Bottles of dressings and condiments are arranged in the center, along with a decorative flower arrangement. Several people are serving themselves, and the setting appears to be well-lit with ceiling lights and a modern interior.

Since there’s not much going on onboard, I stayed at the buffet for like an hour and a half with my laptop, working on my journal. Nobody seemed to mind, even when I had two desserts. I probably got my money’s worth.

Guess what I found when I went to pull down my bed?

A close-up view of a neatly made single bed with white sheets and a pillow against a light-colored wall. A folded white towel is placed on the bed, and a hand is pointing at it. The towel is circled in red for emphasis.

Live and learn. Oh, I seem to have lost my Kindle. My best guess is I left it at my Oslo hotel. Tomorrow we’ll be exploring Copenhagen electronics stores!

Norway and Denmark Day 10

Arrival in Copenhagen

  • Start of day: Nordic Crown ferry, somewhere between Oslo and Copenhagen
  • End of day: Copenhagen Strand hotel, Copenhagen Denmark

One of the first things I learned this morning is there are two “subway” systems in Copenhagen: the Metro and the S-train. Further complicating matters, near the DFDS ferry terminal I arrived in, Google Maps seems to think these stations are in the same place. They are not.

The image shows a modern train station platform on a sunny day. In the foreground, a dark navy blue hard-shell suitcase with an extended handle stands on the paved platform. A white bicycle symbol is painted on the ground, indicating a designated bike area. Across the train tracks, there are several modern office buildings with large glass windows and red-brick sections. One of the buildings has 'IDS' signage. A person is standing further down the platform, and overhead, there are electronic signs and lights attached to the canopy. The sky is bright blue with a few scattered clouds.

The train I was looking for was supposed to pass every few minutes, but after around 15 minutes of trains stopping that weren’t mine, I hopped on one heading in the general direction I needed to go. Not always the best idea, but it was mid-morning and my suitcase was the rolling kind, so I had bandwidth for an adventure. I hopped off in a few stops once Google Maps showed I was starting to veer away from the hotel. That’s when I made my Metro discovery and was able to take that to a few blocks from the Copenhagen Strand, my hotel for the next two nights.

I wasn’t able to early check-in here so I dropped my bag and set off to explore. Actually, first I had a side quest: to replace my lost Kindle before my long flights home. Elgiganten seems to be their Best Buy equivalent. Alas, they had no Kindles of any kind. And their inventory system showed none in stock in any of their other nearby stores. Either Copenhageners are voracious buyers of Kindles, or there’s an opportunity here for Amazon.

Having failed/abandoned that quest, I went to find some lunch instead. I showed up right at open for a Thai place and was the only patron while I was there. Upon checkout, two things happened in quick succession that I haven’t encountered anywhere else in my travels: 1) they charged me more than $4.00 USD for tap water (the check literally said Tap Water), and as I was paying with my credit card the server reached over and chose US Dollars on the point-of-sale for me instead of the local currency1, which is incredibly presumptuous (and wrong). I’m not naming the place but it was my first off-putting restaurant experience in recent memory.

The Pad Thai was good at least: The image shows a freshly served bowl of Pad Thai on a wooden restaurant table. The dish includes stir-fried rice noodles with beef, bean sprouts, green onions, crushed peanuts, and scrambled egg, garnished with a lime wedge and fresh chives. To the side, there's a glass pitcher of water with lemon slices, an empty glass, a lit tealight candle, and a small vase with pink and white flowers. A condiment caddy with jars of chili flakes, vinegar, and sliced red chilies in oil sits on the table. The background reveals a cozy restaurant interior with green walls, wooden furnishings, and warm hanging lights.

I spent most of the afternoon either walking or sitting + people watching. Copenhagen seems fantastic for this. The weather was great, tour groups were out in force (always fun to watch), and I enjoyed seeing Copenhagers go about their Saturday activities.

Later in the afternoon I checked into my hotel and relaxed for a bit.

The image shows a neatly arranged, modern hotel room at the Copenhagen Strand hotel. The room features light wooden flooring, a large window letting in natural light, and minimalist Scandinavian-style furnishings. A single bed is placed against the right wall with a dark blue rug beneath it, along with a light gray blanket and a gray pillow. A small round side table stands next to the bed. On the left side, there's a wooden desk with two matching chairs, equipped with a modern desk lamp, a phone, and a TV remote. A large mirror is mounted on the wall next to the bed, reflecting parts of the room. A few snacks and a bottle of sparkling water or wine are visible in the foreground on a side table. The view through the window shows rooftops and light-colored buildings, consistent with Copenhagen's architecture.

The image shows the same hotel room at the Copenhagen Strand hotel from a different angle, looking toward the entrance. A double bed with white linens, gray throw pillows, and a checkered blanket is positioned on the left, backed by a light blue accent wall and a padded headboard. A small round wooden side table and a wall-mounted reading lamp are beside the bed. On the right side, there's a wooden desk with a modern lamp and a wooden chair, set below a wall-mounted flat-screen TV. A mini-bar and storage shelf are located near the door. The room also includes a tall white fan and a tan leather chair in the corner. The decor is minimalist and Scandinavian in style, with clean lines, light wood floors, and soft natural lighting.

I went for a long walk-around to find an interesting dinner place before ending up at an excellent Pakistani restaurant 70 meters from my hotel.

I saved the main attraction for the evening: Tivoli Gardens! Getting there was easy. After my earlier subway experiences, I felt like a pro navigating the Metro. They’re clean, convenient, and automated!

The image shows a modern Copenhagen Metro station, viewed from the top of an escalator. The station features clean, minimalist design with smooth gray stone walls, a geometric ceiling, and bright lighting. Multiple passengers are waiting on the platform, some standing near the glass safety barriers that separate the platform from the train tracks. Digital signs display upcoming train arrivals with destinations such as Ørestad, Østerport, and København H. A large round clock is visible above the escalators, and signage on the walls and platforms is clear and easy to read, consistent with Copenhagen’s well-organized public transport system.

I could’ve gotten there on bike, too. Copenhagen is VERY well set up for bike travel, and the Danes love their bikes. I can’t blame them!

The image shows a large number of bicycles parked in neat rows along a cobblestone path beside a historic red brick building in Copenhagen, likely near Tivoli Gardens. The building has pointed towers, arched windows, and decorative stonework, suggesting it may be a former industrial or institutional structure now repurposed. Bicycles of various styles and colors fill the racks and are also locked along the fence and walls, reflecting Copenhagen’s strong cycling culture. The scene is captured in the soft light of early evening with a clear blue sky above. A few pedestrians can be seen in the background along the wide sidewalk.

But anyway, on to Tivoli! Let me digress for a minute. If you don’t know, Tivoli Gardens (or “Tivoli”) is an amusement park that opened in August of 1843. That’s a long time ago. As someone who worked at the Magic Kingdom and EPCOT in Orlando, I’m always interested in seeing how other theme parks are set up, and Tivoli was at the tip-top of my list of places to visit for this.

I had a chance to visit in 2000 when I visited Copenhagen for an evening when I worked for Celebrity Cruises, but the people I was with weren’t interested. They were South Americans who were drawn like moths to flame to the Hard Rock Cafe instead, so that’s what we did. It was okay. I overpaid for the iconic Hard Rock Cafe Copenhagen shirt and then managed to lose it within the year. Aaaaanyway…

Tivoi was incredible. I’m so glad I went at night. Amusement parks are just better at night. I have yet to be convinced otherwise. I paid my admission and spent the next few hours walking around, snacking, and people-watching. It’s so great! It’s the perfect size. It’s an oasis in the city. It’s still very much part of the city – you can see the nearby office buildings and sometimes spot traffic beyond the fences – but exists as its own thing, too. It’s such an odyssey getting to any of the Disney parks in Orlando that the idea of hopping off a subway and within a few minutes you’re through the gates of an amusement park… I just love it.

I’ll share some photos here but really it needs to be visited.

The image shows a beautifully maintained section of Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen during the early evening. At the center is the iconic open-air Peacock Theatre, with its elaborate Oriental-style architecture featuring gold roofs, intricate red and black patterns, and a large, colorful peacock design on the stage backdrop. Traditional lantern-style street lamps with warm glowing lights line the grassy area in front. A few visitors walk or sit on benches, enjoying the serene atmosphere. On the right, flowerbeds and a lit-up restaurant sign add to the lively yet peaceful charm of the scene. Trees and decorative greenery frame the area, while the modern, angular facade of the Tivoli Concert Hall is visible in the background.

The image shows a tranquil lakeside area within Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen during the early evening. On the left, there's a traditional stone lantern standing on a bed of white gravel surrounded by rocks and lush greenery. To the right, a red wooden bridge decorated with string lights and golden accents extends over the water, with several visitors enjoying the view. The lake reflects the soft lighting and surrounding trees, creating a peaceful, atmospheric scene. In the background, weeping willows and historic buildings add to the charm, blending natural beauty with Tivoli’s decorative and cultural elements.

The image shows Tivoli Gardens at night, beautifully illuminated under a deep blue sky. In the foreground, a large decorative fountain with white flower-shaped structures is lit up with soft lighting, and streams of water arc from the edges. Beyond the fountain, a brightly lit vintage carousel glows with golden lights, forming the centerpiece of the scene. Behind it stands the distinctive facade of the Tivoli Concert Hall, adorned with a row of flagpoles displaying red-and-white Danish flags. To the right, the green-lit tower of one of Tivoli's thrill rides is visible above the trees, while clusters of visitors stroll through the park’s warmly lit paths. The overall atmosphere is festive and enchanting.

After a few hours of Tivoli, I decided to take in the city by doing the 2 km walk back to my hotel instead of Metro-ing. Overall a very memorable day in the capital of Denmark.

  1. If you’ve used a credit card machine in a foreign country then you probably know what I’m talking about. Once you tap/swipe your card, a screen pops up asking whether you want to pay in 1) the local currency, or 2) US dollars. You should always choose the local currency, as your credit card company will almost certainly give you a better exchange rate than the point-of-sale provider is offering. ↩

Norway and Denmark Day 11

The travel wall

I hit the travel wall today.

I didn’t sleep well. It was rainy and gray out. I was tired, tired of being a solo traveler, tired of sleeping in strange beds. I was ready to be home.

The image shows a street scene in Copenhagen on a cloudy day. On the left, a narrow sidewalk runs alongside tall, traditional European-style buildings with beige and red brick facades and arched windows. Parked vehicles line the cobblestone-edged street, including a white van labeled 'Øland's Kloakmester,' which advertises plumbing and sewage services. Red and white traffic posts are positioned near the curb, possibly for temporary construction or parking restrictions. On the right, more classic Copenhagen apartment buildings with white-framed windows and red or grey brickwork are visible. Trees are spaced along the street, and the wet pavement suggests recent rain.

The image shows a quiet street in Copenhagen on a cloudy and wet day. On the left side, there is a long, green building with evenly spaced windows and a covered overhang with round lights. A few pedestrians are walking along the wide, clean sidewalk. On the right, cars are parked along the curb in front of elegant, historic apartment buildings with ornate white façades, decorative molding, and small balconies. The street is lined with modern, minimalistic lampposts, and a no-parking sign is visible in the center. The damp pavement and overcast sky suggest it recently rained.

A giant Pad Thai and pseudo-Diet Coke helped a little. The image shows a serving of Pad Thai on a square white plate, set on a table with a white tablecloth. The dish consists of stir-fried rice noodles with beef, scrambled egg, bean sprouts, green onions, and a savory, slightly reddish sauce. On the side, there is a wedge of lime, a small salad with shredded cabbage, carrots, and sliced red onion, and two small glass bowls containing crushed peanuts and dried chili flakes. A glass bottle of Coca-Cola Zero Sugar and an empty water glass are also on the table. A lit tealight candle adds a warm, inviting touch to the dining setting.

That’s it for today. Tomorrow: the journey home.

Norway and Denmark Day 12

Copenhagen to RDU

  • Start of day: Copenhagen Strand hotel, Copenhagen Denmark
  • End of day: Holly Springs, North Carolina, USA

Heaven is a flight that doesn’t leave at 6am. Today’s is 2pm. Ample time to be lazy at the hotel, check out at the last minute, catch the train to the airport, have a bite of lunch, and hop onto an airplane.

Making my way to the Metro station. The author, wearing sunglasses and a dark blue collared sweater, is standing at a crosswalk, taking a selfie on a sunny day. Behind him is a historic European cityscape featuring a large bronze statue of a man in historical attire pointing forward, mounted on a stone pedestal with smaller figures at its base. The background includes ornate brick buildings with white-framed windows and a dark-tiled roof, and a tall tower visible in the distance. The sky is clear and blue, and the area appears to be in a central part of a European city, possibly Copenhagen based on the architectural style.

The image shows the entrance to the Kongens Nytorv metro station in Copenhagen, Denmark. The entrance is a modern glass structure with a red 'M' metro logo on top and the station name displayed beneath it. It's located in a busy urban square in front of the historic Magasin du Nord department store, a large beige building with arched windows and ornate architectural details. The area in front of the station is filled with parked bicycles, and a few people can be seen walking nearby. The sky is clear with a few wispy clouds, indicating a sunny day.

I thought the subway system map looked cool, like a clue in a video game or something: The image shows a simplified Copenhagen Metro map displayed on a board at a station platform. The map features colored lines representing different metro routes: green (M1), yellow (M2), red (M3), and blue (M4). The red line forms a circular route (Cityringen), while the others branch off in different directions. Key transfer stations and zones are marked along the lines. The surrounding frame is made of glass and metal, and part of a metro train is visible in the background on the left side. The sky is partly cloudy with sunlight casting shadows on the pavement.

The Copenhagen airport was clean and nice and a little confusing in the check-in area, making it pretty standard for the region: The image shows an entrance corridor at Copenhagen Airport with a sign overhead that reads 'Welcome to Copenhagen Airport' in English. The area is bright with natural light streaming through large glass walls. Travelers are seen walking or pulling luggage toward various exits and escalators. Overhead directional signs in yellow on dark blue point to locations such as Clarion & Comfort Hotel, car rental center, parking areas, public transport, and Terminals 2 and 3. The floor is made of light gray tiles, and there are escalators leading to a lower level in the center of the walkway.

The image shows an interior corridor at Copenhagen Airport featuring a high ceiling with skylights, polished wood flooring, and a large central clock hanging at the far end. Travelers are walking along the elevated walkway, some pulling luggage. On both sides of the corridor are glass railings overlooking lower levels. Large vertical banners with the SAS airline logo and the slogan 'We are Scandinavia' are displayed prominently on the walls. The modern architecture and spacious design give the area a bright and airy atmosphere.

My chariot: The image shows an Icelandair airplane parked at a gate at Copenhagen Airport (CPH). The aircraft has a sleek white body with bold blue 'ICELANDAIR' lettering along the fuselage and a blue and green tail fin. Ground crew and various service vehicles are positioned around the plane, attending to tasks such as baggage handling and refueling. The scene is viewed from inside the terminal through large glass windows, with a few people standing near the viewing area on the right. The weather outside is clear and sunny, and the airport tarmac stretches into the distance under a bright blue sky.

Iceland’s Kevlavik airport, the international airport for this part of Iceland and a major gateway between the US and Europe. We’re very familiar with this airport at this point. The image shows a corridor inside Keflavík International Airport (KEF) in Iceland. The ceiling is covered with red square panels, and the floor is made of light gray tiles. The passageway is well-lit, with travelers walking in both directions. Overhead signs indicate gate numbers and directions, including one with ‘KEF’ and gate A11 clearly marked. Along the right side, there's a light blue advertisement and a few wheelchairs positioned by the wall. To the left, trash and recycling bins are placed beneath a long digital display showing scenic Icelandic landscapes. The area has a clean, modern, and organized appearance.

The (in)famous Blue Lagoon near Keflavik airport: The image shows an aerial view of Iceland’s Blue Lagoon, a popular geothermal spa located in a rugged volcanic landscape near the southwestern coast. The lagoon appears as a bright, milky-blue body of water surrounded by dark, rocky terrain. Steam can be seen rising from the nearby geothermal power facilities, and winding roads lead to and from the complex. The shoreline and the shimmering North Atlantic Ocean are visible in the background, with waves gently meeting the coast. The contrast between the blue lagoon, reddish earth, and black lava fields creates a striking natural scene.

It was a nice clear-ish day, so I was able to get some shots of Greenland: The image shows an aerial view of Greenland taken from high altitude on a clear day. Large expanses of snow-covered mountains and rugged terrain are visible below, with patches of exposed dark rock and deep blue water bodies in between. In the lower part of the image, the coastline is sharply defined, with icy formations and scattered icebergs extending into the sea. The upper portion of the image shows a layer of soft, streaked clouds stretching across the horizon, under a deep blue sky. The view highlights Greenland's dramatic, icy landscape and its stark contrast between land, ice, and ocean.

The image shows another aerial view of Greenland taken from an airplane window. The wing and engine of the Icelandair aircraft are clearly visible in the foreground, with the airline's logo on the wingtip. Below, a vast expanse of sea ice stretches across the lower half of the scene, while snow-capped mountains and rugged coastal terrain appear in the distance. The clouds are layered in soft, horizontal bands, and the sky above is a deep, clear blue. The image captures the stark, frozen beauty of Greenland’s landscape from high altitude.

That’s it! That’s all the fun stuff. Nobody wants to see photos of me after a 7 hour flight or collecting luggage or waiting for an Uber. Thanks for following my journey!

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